Famous for its natural beauty, healthy environment and pleasant summer breeze, Almora is an extremely captivating region in the Himalayas.
The city’s history, heritage and folk tales are safely recorded in numerous texts from ancient times. Situated at an altitude of 5500 feet from the sea level, the temperature of the city remains soothing throughout the year. Swami Vivekananda used to say that in this very land of Uttarakhand, the eternal truths of the Vedas were revealed for the first time.
In 1886, after the death of Sri Ramakrishna, many of his monastic disciples travelled to Almora, namely Swami Akhandananda, Swami Saradananda, Swami Abhedananda, Swami Shivananda, Swami Niranjanananda, Swami Turiyananda, Swami Yogananda, Swami Adbhutananda, Swami Vijnanananda and their dear Naren (Swami Vivekananda, who visited Almora three times- in 1890, 1897, 1898). Some of the places blessed by the footprints of these holy saints are- Kakrighat, Karbala, Lala Badri Shah’s house, Devaldhar Estate, Oakley House, Thomson House, Kasar Devi, Patal Devi, Khagmara Kot, Chilkapet house, Syahi Devi and Ramakrishna Kutir. It was Swami Vivekananda’s fervent desire to set up an Ashrama in the silent and holy peaks of the Himalayas. He had said- “These mountains are associated with the best memories of our race; if these Himalayas are taken away from the history of religious India, there will be very little left behind. Here, therefore, must be one of those centres, not merely of activity, but more of calmness, of meditation, and of peace; and I hope someday to realise it.”
Swami Turiyananda on receiving a call from his brother disciple Swami Shivananda, who was then practising spiritual austerities in Almora from 1913 to 1915, came to Almora on 8 April 1915 with Brahmachari Kanai. It was hoped that Swami Turiyananda’s ailing body would get some comfort here. Both brother disciples started staying in the Chilkapet outhouse of Lala Badri Shah. And thus, Swami Shivananda and Swami Turiyananda became the founders of the Ramakrishna Kutir, Almora. When Swami Vivekananda with Swami Turiyananda came to Almora in 1898, he had at that time expressed his desire to establish an Ashrama here. Hence, when Swami Turiyananda came to this place again, he was reminded of Swamiji’s wish and he strongly felt that there must be an Ashrama in this pious land of the Himalayas, which is the abode of Goddess Parvati. Chilkapeta Outhouse
Both brother disciples together resolved to build an Ashrama in Almora. Near to the Chilkapet house, a sloping piece of land (2-3/16 Naali) on the hill was bought. The land belonged to a certain Banchi Kanwal of Khatyari village and the price was fixed at ₹20 (the value of the land in the sale deed of 1917 is mentioned to be ₹30). This sale deed was made in the name of Swami Brahmananda, who was the then President of Ramakrishna Math and Ramakrishna Mission, Belur. The construction work began with the initial zeal and efforts of Swami Shivananda. Lala Badri Shah’s younger brothers Mohanlal Shah and Gangi Shah lent financial assistance and guidance to the construction work. First of all, the land was levelled to make it suitable for construction. Soon after the work began, Swami Shivananda had to return from the hills and the entire responsibility of the supervision of the work was taken up by Swami Turiyananda. Swami Shivananda, however, continued to raise funds for the work from Kolkata and other places as Swami Turiyananda would never ask for money from anyone. Swami Turiyananda exerted himself physically to the utmost to oversee the work. As the work progressed, he started writing about the items needed for the construction to many of the devotees. And thus, some more funds came through.
Mohanlal Shah had estimated that about ₹500-600 would be needed for the entire construction, but later he changed that to ₹1000. One can imagine the distress Swami Turiyananda was going through owing to the shortage of funds from his letters. A devotee by the name of Sadhu Haridas, at the time of his death, had given ₹200 to his brother to be sent to Swami Turiyananda. Another devotee, who was a health officer of Rangoon, Mr D’mello sent ₹150. He was originally a Christian from Goa. Sri Bhushan Chandra Pal of Chandannagar and Sri Bhusan Chandra Das of Baranagar, both disciples of the Holy Mother and known to Swami Turiyananda also supported the work. They used to send money and also send necessary construction materials such as tin for roofing through railways. Sri Mohanlal Shah repaid the loan of ₹100, taken for the purchase of wood. Another devotee Sri Narayan Ayengar also contributed ₹100 for repayment of the loan. Swami Shivananda kept sending money and construction materials as well, along with his valuable guidance.
Old temple built by Hari Maharaj
On the day of opening, i.e. on 22 May 1916, Swami Turiyananda performed Puja and Havan in the Ashrama. Swami Turiyananda was joyful at the completion of the work and wrote to one of the devotees- “There wasn’t any place for Sri Thakur in Almora. Through Swamiji’s grace, Almora has become famous. It was necessary for the Mission to have a centre here. With the blessings of Sri Thakur, this has been made possible. I feel that many people would benefit from this”. In another letter, he wrote to Swami Premananda- “Mohanlal and others worked really hard. If they didn’t show so much enthusiasm, this work wouldn’t have been completed”
On 25th May 1916, Mahapurush Maharaj (Swami Shivananda) wrote to Hari Maharaj (Swami Turiyananda)- “I have received your letter dated 20th. I am surmising that by the grace of Sri Thakur, the Kutir would have been offered (at the feet of the Lord) through Puja and Havan last Monday. And now, it would be possible for people to reside there. I am overjoyed at this. It is a matter of great joy that a small place for Sri Thakur has been created at Almora and his devotees can stay with him there. It would now be possible to practise spiritual austerities at such a healthy place. Maharaj (Swami Brahmananda) is extremely pleased by reading your letter”. That year, on the occasion of Navaratri, Swami Turiyananda performed the Durga Puja in a small way in the ashrama and recited the Chandi (Durga Saptashati).
Image of Goddess Durga in the main shrine of the Ashrama Temple
Swami Turiyananda had to undergo a lot of physical exertion to oversee the construction work. Every day, morning and evening, he would come to the construction site from the Chilkapet House and spend hours in the sun holding an umbrella. Slowly, the required funds arrived and the first stage of the construction was finished. Two rooms were constructed on the ground floor and two on the first floor. Later, a room for the staff, a toilet and a retention wall for the compound in front of the house were built.
Articles used by Swami Turiyananda during his stay in Almora
On the day of opening, i.e. on 22 May 1916, Swami Turiyananda performed Puja and Havan in the Ashrama. Swami Turiyananda was joyful at the completion of the work and wrote to one of the devotees- “There wasn’t any place for Sri Thakur in Almora. Through Swamiji’s grace, Almora has become famous. It was necessary for the Mission to have a centre here. With the blessings of Sri Thakur, this has been made possible. I feel that many people would benefit from this”. In another letter, he wrote to Swami Premananda- “Mohanlal and others worked really hard. If they didn’t show so much enthusiasm, this work wouldn’t have been completed”
On 25th May 1916, Mahapurush Maharaj (Swami Shivananda) wrote to Hari Maharaj (Swami Turiyananda)- “I have received your letter dated 20th. I am surmising that by the grace of Sri Thakur, the Kutir would have been offered (at the feet of the Lord) through Puja and Havan last Monday. And now, it would be possible for people to reside there. I am overjoyed at this. It is a matter of great joy that a small place for Sri Thakur has been created at Almora and his devotees can stay with him there. It would now be possible to practise spiritual austerities at such a healthy place. Maharaj (Swami Brahmananda) is extremely pleased by reading your letter”. That year, on the occasion of Navaratri, Swami Turiyananda performed the Durga Puja in a small way in the ashrama and recited the Chandi (Durga Saptashati).
Swami Turiyananda spent some time writing letters during this period. He would remain busy in studies and would be eager to guide spiritual aspirants. Most of his letters were written from Almora and what divinity was present in them- revelation of pure Advaita Vedanta in daily life! He once told a monk- “Whatever I had to offer to the world, I have done so through my letters”. One gets an idea of his thoughts and activities by reading his letters.
One can understand from the letters of Swami Shivananda and Swami Turiyananda that after the opening of the Ashrama, Swami Shivananda was worried about the Ashrama’s progress and Swami Turiyananda’s health. Swami Shivananda wrote to Swami Turiyananda expressing the urgent need for the construction of a toilet within the Ashrama campus. In the same letter, he enquires whether the stream below the ashrama still has some water or has it dried up. The road to the stream from the Ashrama was uneven, narrow and dangerous. Swami Shivananda wanted it to be levelled. This road is still steep but the residents of the Ashrama need not worry about it anymore as recently a few large reservoirs and tanks have been installed. Swami Shivananda also assured to send funds for making three cots. In another letter, he emphasised on the need to build a retention wall as there was a risk of damage to the building’s foundation due to landslides during the rainy season. He writes that once the wall is built, by the grace of Sri Thakur, the other needs will also be fulfilled.
Whatever work was done in Almora, was done at the cost of Swami Turiyananda’s health. We get to know from his letters that he was suffering from fever, irritation in the throat, diarrhoea and pain in the knees during this period. Swami Premananda was especially worried about getting to know about this. He requested Hari Maharaj in a letter to come down from the hills. Swami Turiyananda left Almora on 5 December 1916. He went to Varanasi via Lucknow. He could never return to Ramakrishna Kutir, the Ashram, which was so dear to him. He left for heavenly adobe on 22 July 1922 at Varanasi. We get to know from the letters of Swami Shivananda and Swami Turiyananda that the initial residents of Ramakrishna Kutir were Brahmahari Kanai Maharaj, Brahmachari Ram Maharaj, Brahmachari Sitapati Maharaj and Brahmachari Kshudimani Maharaj and closely associated with these ashrama residents were Lala Badrishah, Mohanlal Shah, Govindlal Shah, Gangishah, Lachhiram and Gopal.
Bed used by Swami Turiyananda - now part of the main shrine
The initial work of the Ashrama began on a piece of land measuring 2-3/16 Naali (a local unit of measurement). Later, some adjacent pieces of land were made a part of the ashrama as well. Sri Amarnath Verma of Almora Thanabazar gifted 1 nali 6 mutthi land to the Ashrama on 18.8.1924. Sri Charan Singh Kanwal was gifted another piece of land (5 Naali 4 Bisa) on 4.1.1929. 5-1/2 naali of land was purchased from Sri Charan Singh Kanwal for ₹550 on 17.3.1931. Another piece of land measuring 4-5/16 naali which had a bungalow (known by the name of Krishna Lodge) and an outhouse on it was bought from Sri Devilal Shah of Khajanchi Mohalla for ₹7600 on 11.1.1957. In place of that bungalow now stands a three-storey RCC building which houses three guest rooms on the ground floor, a library on the first floor and a multipurpose hall cum bookstore on the second floor.
The building as it stands now: Guest House, Turiyananda Library, Shivananda Hall & Vivekananda Book Store
In Swami Turiyananda’s time, four rooms of a building, a room for the staff and a toilet were constructed. Later, the Ashrama was expanded by building a kitchen and a dining hall. The upper storey of this new building was used as living quarters. As time went by, with the increase in the number of residents, new Kutirs (cottages) were built such as Turiyananda Kutir, Sarada Kutir (1938), Brahmananda Kutir, Saradananda Kutir (1959), Premananda Kutir (1953), Adbhutananda Kutir (1962), Turiyananda Library (1938). The road to the temple and the dining hall from these cottages was narrow and dangerous. In 2010, a flash flood followed by a landslide heavily damaged the ‘Adbhutananda Kutir’ and some areas in front of the temple. Hence, during the period 2013-16, a part of the hill was cut and a huge retention wall was constructed and the narrow path and the area in front of the temple were expanded and a PCC floor was built. Thus, the area in front of the temple became an open-airy place that now receives abundant sunlight. Along with this, the reconstruction of the ‘Swami Adbhutananda Kutir’ also commenced, which was inaugurated on the occasion of the Ashrama’s centenary celebrations on 22 May 2016. Another floor was added to this building in May 2022 which now houses 10 rooms, used as Sadhu Niwas.
In 2020, heavy rainfall continued for more than 10 days at a stretch resulting in severe landslides. Again, the Ashrama suffered much damage. This time, however, by divine grace, no damage occurred to any of the buildings. To safeguard from any such future calamity- a series of retaining walls were constructed at various places of the Ashrama- which also paved the way for new pathways and new gardens- adding more to the accessibility and beauty of the Ashrama.
One can notice the retaining walls protecting the various buildings of the Ashrama
In 2022, 106 years after the first building was constructed, it was felt that it needed repair. An extensive reinstatement work for this heritage building is going on under the supervision of an eminent restoration and heritage architect. An extension to the building is also being constructed which will house 4 rooms for staff and devotees and a dining hall for monks and devotees.
Restoration of the heritage building in progress
After the departure of Swami Turiyananda from Almora on 5.12.1916, Brahmachari Ram Maharaj remained in charge of the Ashram till 18.9.1944.
Ram Maharaj and Gurudas Maharaj at Ramakrishna Kutir, Almora in 1938
Since then, the following monks served as the Adhyaksha of Ramakrishna Kutir:
1. Swami Bagalananda (18.3.1944 to 11.4.1949)
2. Swami Aparnananda (11.4.1949 to 1.10.1963)
3. Swami Purnatmananda (7.10.1963 to 8.10.1975)
4. Swami Krishnatmananda (8.10.1975 to 22.9.1978)
5. Swami Shivarupananda (22.9.1978 to 17.12.1981)
6. Swami Samprajnananda (17.12.1981 to 23.11.1983)
7. Swami Ishananda (23.11.1983 to 22.5.1989)
8. Swami Siddhidananda (22.5.1989 to 25.7.1999)
9. Swami Chinmayananda (26.7.1999 to 30.7.2008)
10. Swami Somdevananda (30.7.2008 to 15.12.2018)
11. Swami Dhruveshananda (16.12.2018 to present)
Ramakrishna Kutir, Almora is a branch centre of Ramakrishna Math, Belur Math. For many decades, the monks of the Ramakrishna Order come here to rest and practice spiritual austerities. Some spend only a few days; some stay for weeks. They find the spiritual atmosphere; solitude and the healthy environment of this place conducive to their Sadhana. The monks of the order, after tremendous hard work in the other centres of the order find rest, peace and solitude at this centre. The devotees and admirers of the Ramakrishna Order also visit this place to spend a few days in the tranquil atmosphere. Hari Maharaj had once said about his spiritual practices- “I have done all that which can be done in a human life”. One can feel the spiritual energy left behind by this array of monks in the very land, the trees, the flowers of the Ashrama and most so in the temple.